How To Store Silk : Keep It Soft, Bright & Beautiful
Lunelle Team
15 min read
You washed it on a gentle cycle. You dried it flat, away from direct sunlight, possibly while muttering at the care label. You stored it in the most logical place available, which, it turns out, was a slight disaster. Six months later you are staring at a silk pillowcase that has gone a faintly suspicious shade of beige and developed a crease with the structural commitment of a motorway.
Here is what nobody tells you: washing silk correctly is the easy part. Storage is where the damage actually happens, and it happens quietly, without so much as a warning creak, while your silk sits in a basket that seemed perfectly reasonable at the time. Light exposure, humidity swings, the wrong tissue paper, and one ambitious moth are each capable of doing more lasting damage than a dozen wash cycles combined. This guide covers what textile conservators who look after actual museum collections genuinely recommend, translated from "please do not touch the exhibits" into something you can act on in a normal linen cupboard.
Quick Answer
Store silk clean (not "probably fine"), completely dry (not "it'll dry in the drawer"), cool at 18–24°C, dark, and in a stable environment. Use unbuffered acid-free tissue or clean cotton. Skip the plastic bags that trap condensation, the wooden hangers that off-gas acids, and anything near a radiator, window, or attic. Refold along different lines every six months so the crease lines do not become permanent structural features. That is genuinely the whole thing.
Key Takeaways
- Silk is a protein fibre. It reacts to light, heat, humidity swings, and airborne pollutants like someone who has very strong opinions about all of them. The damage is gradual, invisible, and, once done, irreversible.
- Store it clean and fully dry. Skin oils, perspiration, and skincare residue oxidise in storage, become impossible to remove, and attract moths and carpet beetles. The moths are not sympathetic about this.
- Use unbuffered acid-free tissue or clean unbleached cotton. The tissue often sold as "acid-free" is buffered (alkaline), which is exactly the wrong kind of protective for protein fibres including silk. These are not the same product.
- Attics and basements are not storage locations. A cool, dark, stable interior space like a linen cupboard is. If retrieving the silk requires a jumper, the location is wrong.
- Refold stored silk every six months along different lines. Fold lines left undisturbed for too long become permanent creases, and in fragile silk, eventually splits. Yes, really. Six months. Different lines.
If you are going to learn about unbuffered tissue, six-monthly refolding, and why wooden hangers are quietly ruining things, you might as well be protecting something genuinely worth the effort. 100% Grade 6A mulberry silk, 22 momme, machine washable, OEKO-TEX certified. The silk at the end of the care guide.
Why Silk Needs More Thought Than a Cotton Drawer
Not all fabrics age the same way in storage. Cotton fades. Linen wrinkles. Polyester could survive a nuclear incident without comment. Silk, on the other hand, is the one fabric with opinions. It has a protein-based structure that reacts to its environment in specific, well-documented, and increasingly inconvenient ways, and understanding those reactions is the difference between silk that looks excellent in ten years and silk that looks like a mystery by Christmas.
Silk's main structural component is fibroin, a protein that forms the long continuous filament of each fibre. As a protein fibre, it behaves very differently from cellulose-based fabrics like cotton and linen. It absorbs moisture readily, weakens when wet, and reacts badly to chemical environments that are either too acidic or too alkaline. It is also, as textile conservators mention with the energy of people who have watched a lot of beautiful things get ruined, unusually sensitive to light.
The Smithsonian Institution is refreshingly blunt about this: silk is "very easily damaged by light." The Canadian Conservation Institute confirms that UV and visible light both cause structural degradation and colour change, that silk is more vulnerable than any other common natural fibre, and that the damage is cumulative and irreversible. Every hour a silk pillowcase sits on a sunny windowsill, dries on an outdoor line, or rests in a storage spot with even indirect light exposure, the fibres are degrading slightly. That damage does not undo itself when the light goes away. It simply banks. Quietly. Until one day you pull out a pillowcase that has gone strangely brittle and that is the bill arriving.
Heat, humidity swings, airborne pollutants, and abrasion from rough contact materials each create their own separate slow-accumulating problems. Silk stored carelessly does not fall apart overnight. It just falls apart, and the signs only become visible once significant damage has already been done. This is either the worst design feature of silk or a very elegant argument for reading this guide now rather than later.
The Four Conditions That Actually Protect Silk in Storage
Conservation literature is quite tediously consistent on this point. Four storage conditions matter, and meeting all four does not require specialist equipment or a museum-grade climate-controlled environment. It mostly requires not using the attic.
Temperature: cool and stable
The National Park Service recommends textile storage at around 18°C to 20°C, with an upper limit of about 24°C. High temperatures accelerate chemical degradation in protein fibres, and temperature fluctuations compound this by causing fibres to expand and contract repeatedly, which creates progressive structural fatigue. A bedroom wardrobe or interior linen cupboard sits comfortably in range for most households. An uninsulated attic in July, a south-facing shelf in a warm kitchen, or the spot helpfully adjacent to a radiator does not.
Humidity: consistent and moderate
The NPS recommends relative humidity below 65%, ideally 50% to 55%, with stability treated as more important than hitting an exact figure. High humidity encourages mould and causes fibres to swell and distort. Low humidity makes fibres brittle and prone to cracking. Repeated swings between the two cause progressive structural fatigue in exactly the way that sounds. In practical terms: a damp basement is not a textile storage space. A bathroom cabinet is not a textile storage space. Anywhere that smells of moisture on a warm day is not a textile storage space.
Light: total exclusion
Because silk light damage is cumulative and irreversible, the correct target is zero direct light exposure. This includes sunlight through windows, certain fluorescent lighting that emits UV, and "but it's only indirect light" reassurances that have never once held up. Closed cupboards, opaque storage, and breathable covering materials all work. A loosely folded silk pillowcase on a lovely open shelf near a window is being slowly and silently destroyed and looks excellent while it happens.
Air quality: clean and moving
Dust can be acidic and accelerate light-related degradation. Airborne pollutants including tobacco smoke, cooking fumes, and off-gassing from certain plastics or finishes can also affect protein fibres over extended periods. A well-ventilated space with reasonably clean air is preferable to a sealed environment that traps whatever was in it the last time anyone opened the door. This is also a reasonable argument, not that you needed one, for not storing silk next to the paint tin cupboard.
The Container Question: What to Actually Store Silk In
"Never use plastic" is advice that sounds definitive, is easy to remember, and is unfortunately slightly wrong. It is the kind of oversimplification that gets shared because it is memorable rather than accurate, and following it will occasionally lead you towards storage choices that are actually worse.
The National Park Service is more precise: some inert plastics are perfectly suitable for textile storage. Polyethylene and polypropylene are both chemically stable and safe. The problem is with non-inert plastics: PVC, PVDC, PVA-containing materials, polyurethane foams, and chloroprene are the ones flagged as unsuitable because they off-gas compounds that damage fibres and dyes over time. The issue is not plastic as a category. It is the wrong plastic, or the right plastic used in conditions that allow condensation to form inside it and then sit there, doing what condensation does to silk.
Even chemically inert plastics carry a humidity risk in certain environments. If the temperature fluctuates and the bag is sealed, condensation forms inside. Some conservators keep polyethylene bags open for exactly this reason: the chemistry is fine but the microclimate that forms in a sealed bag during a warm spell is not. For most home situations, the simplest reliably safe option is breathable natural material. The key word is breathable. It should feel like an obvious thing to say and still gets ignored constantly.
The Canadian Conservation Institute recommends unbuffered acid-free tissue or prewashed unbleached cotton muslin for wrapping and interleaving textiles. The Smithsonian's Museum Conservation Institute notes that washable cotton sheeting is a reliable option because it blocks dust while still allowing air to circulate. Both of these options are cheaper than the damage they prevent.
| Storage Material | Suitable for Silk? | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Unbuffered acid-free tissue | Yes | Best option for interleaving folds and wrapping silk items |
| Prewashed unbleached cotton muslin | Yes | Good breathable covering; protects from dust without trapping moisture |
| Polyethylene or polypropylene bags | With care | Inert plastics are chemically safe; keep open or monitor for condensation |
| Buffered (alkaline) acid-free tissue | No | Alkaline content can damage protein fibres including silk |
| Ordinary cardboard or tissue paper | No | May be acidic; can transfer harmful compounds to silk over time |
| PVC bags or containers | No | Off-gasses compounds that damage fibres and dyes |
| Polyurethane foam | No | Degrades and produces compounds harmful to textiles |
| Sealed plastic bags in humid conditions | Avoid | Traps condensation; creates the damp environment silk needs to avoid |
Should Silk Be Folded, Hung, or Rolled?
The answer depends on what you are storing. Getting it wrong is one of the most common and least visible sources of long-term silk damage, precisely because it looks fine for months before it very much does not.
Hanging silk garments
Hanging works for structured silk garments in good condition, but with two things most storage guides skip entirely. The first is support: without adequate padding, the weight of the garment concentrates stress at the shoulders and neckline, distorting the shape gradually over time. The NPS recommends padded hangers made from chemically stable materials rather than wire or wooden ones.
The wooden hanger issue deserves its own moment. Wood off-gases volatile acids when in prolonged contact with textiles. Not catastrophically. Not visibly. Just persistently. A silk dress hung on a beautiful wooden hanger for a full season is a silk dress being slowly and silently chemically damaged by it. Chemically stable padded alternatives are not an upgrade. They are the correct choice.
Fragile silk, heavily embellished pieces, bias-cut garments, lightweight knits, and anything showing early signs of deterioration should not be hung at all. The NPS identifies these as better suited to flat storage, because hanging concentrates mechanical stress in ways these fabrics cannot absorb without gradual, irreversible change. "It'll be fine" is a popular opinion that the fabric disagrees with.
Folding silk for storage
Folding is the correct default for most silk items: pillowcases, scarves, lightweight garments, anything that is not a structured dress or jacket. The NPS guidance recommends interleaving folds with unbuffered tissue, folding loosely rather than tightly, and not overcrowding the storage space. Items stacked heavily on top of silk set creases into the lower layers. This is also, incidentally, why "I'll just put it at the bottom of the drawer" is not the storage strategy it appears to be.
The thing that consumer guides almost universally fail to mention: the Smithsonian recommends opening folded textiles and refolding along different lines every six months. This is not overly cautious museum fussiness. Fold lines that stay in the same position for extended periods concentrate repeated mechanical stress on the same fibres. In silk that has lost suppleness, or in any silk left undisturbed long enough, those fold lines eventually crack. That damage cannot be repaired. The six-month refold is a one-minute task. The repair bill does not exist because the repair is not possible.
Rolling large silk textiles
For large flat silk textiles including throws, table runners, or significant garments with full skirts, rolling onto a suitable tube is preferable to folding because it avoids sharp crease lines entirely. The CCI and NPS both recommend rolling with interleaving unbuffered tissue and covering the roll with a clean muslin sleeve for dust protection. The material note is the same as for folded storage: unbuffered tissue for interleaving, not buffered, not standard tissue paper, not whatever was in the craft drawer.
Five Storage Mistakes That Silently Shorten Silk's Life
Most storage damage comes from a small number of habits that are not remotely dramatic and entirely preventable. None of them feel like mistakes when you make them. That is precisely the problem.
1. Storing it dirty or damp
This is the one that causes the most long-term damage and the one most casually overlooked, because it does not look like a mistake when you do it. Soils including perspiration, skincare residue, oils, and food stains do two things over time: they oxidise and become both more visible and significantly harder to remove, and they make the textile a genuinely appealing destination for fabric pests. The Australian Institute for the Conservation of Cultural Material is direct: a dirty or damp textile is likely to deteriorate in storage, often without the damage becoming apparent for some time. Wash it. Dry it completely. Then store it. That order matters enormously, and swapping the last two steps does not work.
2. Using the wrong contact materials
Brown paper, standard tissue, regular cardboard, and cheap plastic bags can all cause acid transfer, off-gassing, or moisture-trapping problems. The specific trap that catches even careful people: buying tissue labelled "acid-free" and assuming it is suitable for all delicate textiles. For silk, buffered acid-free tissue is actively harmful. Only unbuffered acid-free tissue is appropriate for long-term silk storage. These are not interchangeable, and most packaging does not make the distinction nearly clear enough.
3. Ignoring fold lines
A fold line left in the same place for six months is not a cosmetic inconvenience. In silk that has dried out or aged even slightly, that fold line is concentrating mechanical stress in a narrow band of fibres, repeatedly, until they crack. This is not a theoretical risk. Refolding along different lines every six months prevents a form of damage that cannot be reversed once it has happened. It takes approximately sixty seconds. The case for sixty seconds has rarely been stronger.
4. Underestimating insects
Clothes moths and carpet beetle larvae are not heritage institution problems. They are common household insects with a specific and well-documented appetite for protein fibres, and they have absolutely no concept of what you paid for something. The CCI notes that insect pests lay eggs in dark corners and creases where damage can develop undetected for some time. Signs of infestation include unexplained holes, shell-like casings (cast larval skins), webbing or cocoons in folds and seams, and fine powdery material called frass near affected areas. If you find any of these, isolate the item immediately. Do not put it back in the wardrobe.
5. Choosing the wrong location
Attics collect heat in summer and lose it rapidly in winter. Basements are damp and have been damp the entire time. Cupboards near radiators cycle between warm-and-dry and slightly-less-warm-and-dry. Shelves near windows receive UV and temperature variation simultaneously. Each of these locations fails at least one of the four conditions silk needs, and each choice accumulates invisible damage while the item sits there looking completely fine, which is, again, precisely the problem.
A Silk Pillowcase Worth Storing Properly
Most silk pillowcase guides spend the majority of their word count on washing and then say almost nothing about what happens between washes, or when the pillowcase goes away for a season. This is roughly equivalent to writing extensively about how to cook a beautiful meal and then ignoring entirely whether you store the leftovers next to the hob.
A pillowcase washed correctly but then folded into a slightly sun-adjacent drawer in a supermarket bag, on top of a stack of other things, will quietly lose the smooth surface you bought it for through light damage, crease fatigue, or moisture exposure. Our guide to keeping silk looking new covers the full maintenance picture beyond storage. None of that undoes itself in the next wash. The solution is a pillowcase good enough to justify the care, with clear enough specifications to make that care straightforward rather than guesswork.
How to Store a Silk Pillowcase Correctly
Silk pillowcases are among the most commonly owned silk items and among the most casually stored, which is a slightly baffling combination given most of them cost more than a good dinner out. The protocol genuinely is not complicated. It just needs to be actually followed rather than assumed.
Silk Pillowcase Storage Checklist
- Wash the pillowcase before storing. Never store it with oils, skincare product residue, or perspiration in the fabric.
- Dry completely before folding. Even slight dampness sets the stage for mould, yellowing, and pest attraction.
- Fold loosely, not tightly. Sharp folds under compression create crease stress that, over time, can become permanent damage.
- Interleave folds with unbuffered acid-free tissue or a layer of clean, washed, undyed cotton. Do not use standard tissue paper or buffered acid-free tissue.
- Store in a cool, dark, dry, well-ventilated location. A bedroom wardrobe or interior linen cupboard is ideal. An attic, bathroom cabinet, or sunny shelf is not.
- Avoid storing in sealed plastic bags if the environment is humid or temperature-variable. Condensation inside the bag creates the exact conditions you are trying to avoid.
- Refold along different lines every six months. This distributes crease stress across different fibres instead of concentrating it in the same spot repeatedly.
- Inspect periodically for any signs of pest activity: unexplained holes, webbing in folds, powdery residue, or shell-like casings near the fabric.
The Pest Problem Nobody Warns You About
Silk storage guides written for home users almost never mention insects. This is a strange omission given that fabric pests are one of the most consistent causes of domestic textile damage and the one type of damage that, unlike a crease or a fade, does not slow down if you ignore it. It speeds up.
The main offenders are clothes moths (Tineola bisselliella) and the larvae of carpet beetles (Anthrenus and Attagenus species). The important clarification: it is the larvae that cause the damage. The adult moths are mostly just there to lay eggs and be alarming in well-lit rooms. The larvae do the actual feeding, creating irregular holes in protected areas like folds, seams, and layered sections where eggs were deposited out of sight and then left alone.
Soiled textiles are dramatically more attractive targets. Skin oils, food residues, and perspiration in an unwashed stored textile provide both nutrition and camouflage. This is not an abstract hygiene concern. It is a very direct line between "stored it slightly grubby" and "there are now holes in it." The "store it clean" rule exists primarily for this reason.
Prevention is three steps: store clean, inspect regularly, and keep storage areas themselves clean and undisturbed. Cedar and lavender can repel adult moths at sufficient concentrations, need refreshing regularly as the volatiles dissipate, have limited effect on larvae already present, and are emphatically not a substitute for the core precautions. They are a nice smell with some modest supplementary deterrent value. That is genuinely all they are.
If you suspect infestation: isolate the item immediately. The CCI's recommended home protocol is to seal it in a polyethylene bag and freeze it for a minimum of 72 hours at below -18°C, then allow it to warm slowly to room temperature before opening the bag. This kills all life stages. For anything significantly valuable or heavily infested, a professional conservator is the appropriate next step, not another look at it and hoping for the best.
Short-Term vs Long-Term Silk Storage: When the Rules Change
A silk pillowcase sitting in a clean drawer between washes needs very little special handling. The risk profile is low and the duration is short. The full protocol, with tissue interleaving, location selection, and six-monthly refolding, becomes progressively more important the longer the item remains in storage and the more hostile the environment.
The rough threshold is around three months. Less than a season in appropriate conditions presents limited risk of crease fatigue or pest establishment. A full season or longer, particularly garments being put away until next year, is where the complete approach earns its keep. Wash, dry completely, interleave with unbuffered tissue, choose a correct location, schedule a refold. Four steps. Less time than the wash cycle. And the first time you pull a silk garment out after eight months and find it in exactly the condition you left it, the whole thing will feel like an extremely reasonable investment of effort.
How to Know If Storage Has Already Damaged Your Silk
Silk storage damage usually has the decency to present some early warning signs, if you know what you are looking at. Most people do not, because almost nobody writes this section.
Yellowing that was not there before storage points to one of three causes: UV light exposure, chemical contact from inappropriate storage materials, or the slow oxidation of oils and residues present in the fabric when it went into storage. Yellowing concentrated in fold lines specifically suggests the third. Yellowing across a broad surface suggests the first or second.
A texture that feels fractionally rougher or stiffer than the original suggests fibre degradation, which may be chemical (wrong detergent, off-gassing from a storage container), physical (crease stress), or UV-related. Loss of drape, where a fabric that was beautifully fluid now holds a shape it never used to hold, typically has the same causes and is the silk equivalent of a very polite complaint.
Holes, powdery residue, webbing, or shell-like casings: pest activity. Isolate immediately. No second opinions needed.
Surface abrasion, where the charmeuse sheen has become uneven or the surface catches light differently in different areas, can result from rough storage materials, abrasion from neighbouring items in a crowded space, or handling damage during folding.
None of these changes are reversible through washing. Some of the causes can be addressed going forward. Identifying the damage is therefore not a post-mortem. It is information about what to stop doing before the next item goes into storage.
Lunelle Silk
Ready to invest in silk that is worth the care?
Everything in this guide reduces to one thing: silk that is properly cared for and properly stored carries on being silk. The Lunelle 22 Momme Silk Pillowcase is 100% Grade 6A mulberry silk with disclosed specifications, which means every care decision from the first wash to the last seasonal fold is a clear, straightforward choice rather than an educated guess. For a denser, more substantial feel, the 30 momme version offers the same quality with considerably more weight behind it.
Why readers choose Lunelle:
- ✔ Grade 6A mulberry silk: the specification level that makes correct storage genuinely worthwhile
- ✔ Charmeuse weave: the smooth surface that proper storage is designed to preserve
- ✔ OEKO-TEX certified: no chemical residues that complicate care decisions
- ✔ Machine washable on a delicate cycle: straightforward cleaning before storage
- ✔ 60-night guarantee. Free returns if you do not notice the difference
Frequently Asked Questions: How to Store Silk
Should silk be stored in plastic bags?
Only with some thought about which plastic and how it is used. Inert plastics such as polyethylene and polypropylene are chemically stable and safe for silk. The problem is that sealed plastic bags can trap condensation when the temperature fluctuates, creating exactly the damp conditions silk needs to avoid. For humid or temperature-variable environments, breathable cotton or muslin is significantly safer. If using polyethylene bags, keep them open rather than sealed. A sealed bag in a warm environment is just a very slow terrarium.
Is it better to hang or fold silk?
It depends on the item. Structured silk garments in good condition can be hung with padded, chemically stable hangers. Fragile, embellished, bias-cut, lightweight, or deteriorating silk is safer stored flat. Most silk items including pillowcases, scarves, and soft garments are best folded loosely with unbuffered tissue interleaving rather than hung.
Can I store silk in a basement or attic?
No. The Smithsonian specifically advises against attic storage (too hot, too unstable, too dramatic a temperature swing between seasons) and against damp spaces such as basements. Both environments fail at least two of the four basic storage requirements for silk. A cool, dark, dry interior cupboard is the correct alternative. If you are using the attic, please stop using the attic.
What is unbuffered acid-free tissue and why does it matter for silk?
Acid-free tissue comes in two types: buffered and unbuffered. Buffered tissue contains alkaline compounds (calcium or magnesium carbonate) added to counteract acidity. This is appropriate for cotton and linen, but the Canadian Conservation Institute states that buffered materials can be unsuitable for protein fibres including silk and wool. For silk, use unbuffered acid-free tissue only. It is often not prominently labelled, so check the product description specifically.
How often should I refold stored silk?
Every six months. The Smithsonian recommends this, and they are not known for being overcautious about textiles. Fold lines left in the same position for extended periods concentrate mechanical stress on the same fibres repeatedly until, in fragile or stiff silk, those fold lines crack. It takes about sixty seconds twice a year to prevent a form of damage that cannot be repaired. This is, objectively, a good use of sixty seconds.
Can moths really damage silk?
Yes. Clothes moths and carpet beetle larvae both feed on protein fibres including silk, particularly when soiling is present. The damage typically appears as irregular holes in protected areas like folds, seams, and layered sections. Storing silk clean and dry significantly reduces the risk, as soiled textiles are considerably more attractive targets for fabric pests.
How should I store a silk pillowcase between seasons?
Wash and dry it completely first. Fold loosely, interleave with unbuffered acid-free tissue or clean undyed cotton, and store in a cool, dark, dry interior space. Avoid sealed plastic in humid conditions. Refold along different lines every six months. Inspect periodically for any signs of pest activity.
Why is my stored silk turning yellow?
Yellowing typically has three causes: UV or light exposure during storage, contact with acidic or reactive storage materials (ordinary paper, standard tissue, certain plastics), or the slow oxidation of oils and residues that were present in the fabric when it was stored. If yellowing is concentrated in fold lines, the latter is the most likely cause. Store silk clean and use appropriate materials to prevent this from developing further.
Is cedar or lavender effective at protecting silk from moths?
Partially. Cedar and lavender contain natural volatile compounds that may deter adult moths at sufficiently high concentrations. However, they have limited effect on larvae already present in a textile, they need to be refreshed regularly as the volatiles dissipate, and they are not a substitute for the core precautions: storing clean, inspecting regularly, and maintaining appropriate storage conditions. Treat them as a supplementary measure, not a primary defence.
Should I use a vacuum bag to compress silk for storage?
No. Vacuum storage bags compress textiles under significant force, creating deep, sustained fold lines and pressure marks. For silk specifically, this concentrates mechanical stress exactly where you do not want it, held in place for however long the bag stays sealed. Silk should be stored with room to breathe, not squeezed flat into the approximate shape of a particularly stressed sandwich. The space saving is not worth it.
Can silk be stored in a wardrobe with other clothing?
Yes, with a few precautions. Avoid overcrowding, which can cause abrasion and deep crease marks in lower layers. Keep silk away from items that off-gas (leather, certain dyed synthetics), and away from items with strong perfume or chemical finishes. If using wooden wardrobe shelving, ensure the silk is wrapped in cotton or tissue rather than lying directly against the wood.
Further Reading
Step-by-step washing instructions: water temperature, detergent choice, machine vs hand wash, and drying correctly.
Read more →The complete maintenance guide: ironing, airing, stain treatment, and the daily habits that prevent gradual deterioration.
Read more →The mistakes that silently shorten silk's life, and exactly what to do instead of each one.
Read more →Which silk care claims are wrong, which are partially right, and which actually hold up to scrutiny.
Read more →The complete home kit for maintaining silk: the products, tools, and storage essentials that actually matter.
Read more →Grade 6A, momme weight, and OEKO-TEX: how to read a silk listing and separate genuine quality from marketing.
Read more →Sources and References
- Smithsonian Institution. Caring for Flag Collections and Similar Textile Objects. Smithsonian Guidelines for Preservation. si.edu
- Australian Institute for the Conservation of Cultural Material. Caring for Cultural Material 2: Caring for Textiles. aiccm.org.au
- National Park Service. Conserve O Gram 16/1: Causes, Detection, and Prevention of Mold and Mildew on Textiles. nps.gov
- National Park Service. Conserve O Gram 18/2: Safe Plastics and Fabrics for Exhibit and Storage. nps.gov
- National Park Service. Conserve O Gram 4/5: Storage Techniques for Hanging Garments: Padded Hangers. nps.gov
- National Park Service. Museum Handbook Appendix K: Curatorial Care of Textile Objects. nps.gov
- Canadian Conservation Institute. CCI Notes 13/3: Rolled Storage for Textiles. canada.ca
- Canadian Conservation Institute. Basic Care of Textiles. canada.ca
- Smithsonian Museum Conservation Institute. Climate and Textiles Storage. mci.si.edu
- Britannica. Fibroin: protein. britannica.com